Helena Puolakka: South Bank style
Skylon's executive chef Helena Puolakka brings a little French style to London's South Bank
Since its extensive £115 million revamp in 2007, the Royal Festival Hall on London’s Southbank has welcomed vast swathes of people - visitors and locals alike - through its doors. But they’re not always headed straight for the auditorium, many are here for one of the capital’s most-talked about restaurants - Skylon. The name, incidentally, comes from the 300ft structure designed by Hidalgo Moya and Philip Powell for the Festival of Britain, which was positioned outside Festival Hall in 1951.
There’s no denying that Skylon has attracted many fans in these last four years, due in no small part to the efforts of Finnish-born executive chef Helena Puolakka. When she joined the D&D restaurant, she not only brought her inimitable culinary flair (which she describes as being peppered with French touches), but also the grand wealth of knowledge and expertise that she would have acquired during her time under Pierre Koffman at La Tante Claire and from French-born chef Pierre Gagnaire, for whose namesake Parisian restaurant, Helena once acted as ‘Chef de Partie’. There was also a stint as head chef at Sonny’s, as well as the time she recently spent as executive chef at Harvey Nichols, Fifth Floor, to mention, too. We found time between shifts at Skylon for a quick chat.
Why did you become a chef?
I have always loved food and because of that, I started cooking from a very early age. It all took off from there.
Tell us two of your favourite recipes?
The first is a simple dish. A roast chicken seasoned with lemon and rosemary. The second? A game pithivier (a round pie) accompanied by a crunchy green salad.
Who inspires/ed you to cook?
The Parisian chef, Pierre Gagnaire, is an inspiration. My mother was also a great influence, and these days, so too are my two children.
What’s the most important meal of the day?
It completely depends on the day. But I think they’re all equally important, as long as the company is right.
What’s your favourite piece of kitchen equipment?
My stove top smoker.
If you could only take one food item to a desert island, what would it be and why?
Cheese. Beaufort Cheese. Why? Cheese is my naughty weakness!
Money no object, where would you have dinner?
It would have to be on a huge yacht in the middle of the Mediterranean. The food would be cooked by my friends Pierre Koffmann, Tom Kitchin and Jyrki Sukula.
Do you ever use cookbooks – and whose?
Sometimes. I suppose the ones I pick up would be by Thomas Keller or Alain Ducasse.
What tips would you give to any chefs-to-be?
Be ready to work really very hard. But most importantly, invest in a good set of knives. They will last you a lifetime.
What is the most exotic thing you have ever eaten?
It would have to be whale.
Would there be a cuisine you’d favour above the rest?
French
You’re on Death Row. What’s your last supper order?
Champagne, champagne, champagne! Perhaps something to nibble on in between different types of champagne, like langoustines, foie gras, a roast chicken sandwich, vacherin and/or some Beaufort cheese. Or maybe some just-churned vanilla ice cream drenched in hot chocolate sauce.
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