An interview with top sushi chef Ricardo Josue Jr

We chat with chef Ricardo Josue Jr about all things sushi, from etiquette to customer service and trying it for the first time.

Making sushi isn’t easy. You need the skills, tools, high-quality ingredients, confidence, dexterity and personality to really make it work. And all that takes years, if not decades, to master.

Chef Ricardo Josue Jr has been running the sushi deck on Market Street at the Harbor Club in St Lucia for the past few years. Making everything to order, he’s well-known across the island for his innovative and delicious sushi, as well as being a friendly character who’s always there to help.

After trying our hand at making two different sushi rolls: me, from my kitchen in Somerset, and chef Ricardo in the rather more glamorous setting of St Lucia in the sunshine, we chatted with him about his interesting start in the hospitality industry, etiquette and how to get into sushi as a newbie.

Chef Ricardo. (Image: Harbor Club, St Lucia)

What originally inspired you to become a chef?

Honestly, I don’t even know. It’s a mystery to me. I went to Dubai to look for a job once I’d graduated as an aircraft mechanic. Unfortunately, the recession hit and job opportunities were scarce. A friend of mine was working at Emirates Flight Catering at the time and he asked if I’d consider a kitchen job as a cook. I knew nothing about working in a professional kitchen setting but I said yes – and the rest is history. That friend helped me learn the way of the kitchen from scratch and I supported that with lots of home study, as well as the on the job training.

Did you love cooking growing up?

My father loved to cook and my mother loved to eat. Cooking has been passed down on my father’s side. He would teach me during the holiday season and I’d be his little sous chef. It was the same for my dad and my grandfather too: creating in the kitchen is definitely a family favourite for us.

You’re a sushi chef, but is that your favourite food? 

I’ve got a lot of favourites. One thing I will say that’s a bit strange is that my all-time favourite food is Indian food. I love the spices and the techniques. It brings me a lot of joy to cook and eat Indian cuisine.

The walk to the pool at the Harbor Club, St Lucia. (Image: Harbor Club, St Lucia)

How did you end up working at the Harbor Club in St Lucia as a chef?

I have been in St Lucia for 10 years now. When I first arrived, I got the job as head chef at the marina sushi bar. I worked there for a few years and one day a gentleman came in for sushi and we chatted as I normally would with customers. I had no idea that this gentleman was the owner of Harbor Club. A few months passed and I then received an invite from the general manager of the hotel to visit the property. At this stage, the Harbor Club was still under construction but we toured the property including the restaurant on the 6th floor and they discussed their plans with me.

I can remember the excitement over their ideas and plans for the hotel. They told me they had plans for a sushi restaurant and that they’d like me to run it. Of course I accepted and the Market Street Sushi restaurant you see at the Harbor Club today offers a menu and dishes of my own design. It’s been quite a journey.

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What are the key skills you need to make good sushi?

When I first started working with sushi, it was a very alien process – I’d always used nails and screwdrivers, not knives and sushi mats. I quickly started to love the process of making sushi though. I enjoyed learning new things in the kitchen.

Having honed my skills over the last few years, I still think the most important element for good sushi is the freshness of the product: nature is the artist, not the chef. That said, I think whatever you do, you should put all of yourself into it. Your work is an extension of you and allowing your flare to shine through in the flavours or presentation of the dishes is key.

Chef Ricardo's sushi rolls. (Image: Harbor Club, St Lucia)

What’s your favourite type of sushi?

I was lucky enough to be given flexibility on the dishes served at Market Street Sushi and I can honestly say that I love all of them. If I had to choose, my absolute favourites are the Captain’s Rolls (ebi furia, fresh tuna, crabstick, cream cheese, flying fish roe) and the Crazy Sailors we made today (tempura shrimp, fresh tuna, spicy salmon tobiko, avocado, eel sauce, spicy mayo). These two are to die for.

I also love sashimi: tuna and salmon, but any fresh fish works. Sashimi dishes are a great one to show off the freshness and quality of the ingredients. Simplicity at its best.

If someone’s new to sushi, what would you suggest they try first?

Let’s stay away from the rolls, as these are generally something that everybody knows. I always suggest to those that are really new to sushi to speak directly to the chef if you can. That conversation allows you to explain likes and dislikes but also highlight any concerns you have about certain sushi dishes. The chef could give dishes a tweak in line with what’s been said and the resulting dishes suddenly become something far more palatable for the customer.

A good start point for those with a fear of fresh fish is to opt for something slightly seared, or options like tempura shrimp. There is also an option for the chef to use the raw fish inside a roll in a smaller quantity so the customer has more of a balance between fish and rice, vegetables, etc. These are just two ways of allowing the pallet to grow used to the taste and texture of raw fish. The customer can build from there.

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Chef Ricardo's famous Crazy Sailors sushi rolls. (Image: Harbor Club, St Lucia)

What are the key etiquette rules people should know about eating sushi?

Ha ha, it’s not that bad. If you can’t use chopsticks, use your hands, but please, whatever you do, don’t use a knife and fork. If you use a knife and fork, you lose some of the experience. A sushi roll has complex flavours which are meant to be enjoyed together, so if you cut it you lose out on some of that. You need that combination of flavours.

What would you recommend to drink with sushi?

Most people like sake, but white wine also works, like Sauvignon Blanc. Something that’s a little bit citrussy. White is definitely the best for sushi as the flavours pair well.

Chef Ricardo leading a sushi-making masterclass live from the Harbor Club St Lucia. (Image: Harbor Club, St Lucia)

What’s your favourite kitchen gadget you couldn’t live without?

My knife. A very sharp knife. If you can sharpen it before you use it, do that. It’s actually safer. I use a Japanese knife.

What’s your favourite comfort food?

I love spring rolls with ground pork and chicken. You can see on my Instagram the things I love to cook. Of course lots of Indian food too.

Which other chefs do you admire?

The chef I’d like to work with the most and be their apprentice is Gordon Ramsay. He’s definitely at the top. The other one is Marco Pierre White. I will gladly join them in their kitchen any day.

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